Gavin Albright is a 20-year-old competitive climber from Sun Prairie, Wisconsin. 

Climbing since the age of eight, Gavin has grown to become one of the top athletes in their field. Albright’s athletic rapture includes high-profile climbing events such as Psyco Bloc in Chicago and notable climbs inRed Rocks and Logan Canyon.

 What might’ve once been just a childhood hobby has evolved into an illustrious career, with Gavin winning a national championship in 2021 and consistently ranking within the top 20 in the adult category.

But beyond the numerous climbing accolades Gavin has attained throughout their life, their story goes far beyond the rock wall.

 In September 2024, Albright publicly came out as non-binary, which was, in their words, “the hardest but most rewarding” experience of their life. 

Gavin’s coming out announcement was marked by a stunning climb and professional photoshoot, embracing a new mission—one bigger than any boulder they’d ever climb: to become a visible and proud representative of the queer and trans climbing community.

The announcement was met with overwhelming support from the climbing world. 

Since coming out, Gavin has competed in—and won—the first-ever non-binary categories at Salt Lake City’s Boulderfest and San Francisco’s Battle of the Bay.

Outside of climbing, Gavin balances their life with art and academics, pursuing a degree in Graphic Design at the University of Utah.  

Their days are dynamically filled—sometimes with school projects, other times with volleyball, and occasionally by delving into fantasy novels like Oathbringer. 

Gavin’s life exemplifies the determination and resilience it takes to be a trailblazer. And a trailblazer is exactly what Gavin is, both as an athlete and as a human.

With all that in mind, we now dive into a Q&A where Gavin opens up about their experiences, challenges, and hopes for the future of climbing and the transgender community.

Q&A with Gavin Albright

Q: What would you say is different about the climbing community compared to other sports communities? How did the community react to you coming out? Did it impact your experience as a climber?

A: The climbing community is incredibly supportive. Unlike other sports, competitors often share strategies, or “beta,” even when they’re up against each other. It’s a community that thrives on mutual respect and camaraderie. Coming out was met with a lot of love and encouragement within the climbing scene, though hate sometimes seeps in from outside, especially on social media. Still, the positive feedback far outweighs the negative, and it motivates me to keep pushing forward.

Q: What are some of the biggest challenges you’ve faced in climbing, both as an athlete and as a transgender individual? How have you overcome them?

A: The hardest part was coming out to my family, but once I had their support, I felt ready to face the world. Dealing with hateful comments online is another challenge. Accepting that negativity is a part of being visible was tough, but knowing I’m inspiring others makes it worth it.

Q: Do you prefer indoor or outdoor climbing? What are the pros and cons of each, and which would you recommend for a beginner?

A: I love both. Outdoors offer beautiful, natural challenges, but the weather can be unpredictable. Indoors provide convenience, variety, and consistent conditions. For beginners, I’d recommend starting indoors—it’s safer and more accessible.

Q: Beyond the physical demands, what role does mental toughness play in climbing?

A: Climbing is just as much a mental game as it is physical. Route reading is like solving a puzzle, and self-doubt can ruin even the strongest climber’s run. Mental endurance—convincing myself I can make the next move—has often been the difference between success and failure.

Q: What are your all-time top three climbing spots, and why?

A: My home gym, Boulders Climbing Gym in Madison WI will always be one of my favorites as they have always been a second family to me. I love Red Rocks in Las Vegas. The climbing there is so beautiful and fun to climb. It is also where I sent Wet Dream, my first V12 earlier this year, as well as The Pearl, my first outdoor V5 back in 2018. And recently, I’ve fallen in love with China Cave in Logan Canyon, Utah, where I sent Super Tweaked (the first established 5.14b in America) about a month ago now.

Q: How has it been navigating the intersection between your personal identity and your public presence as an athlete?

A: I’ve realized that visibility matters. Trans representation in sports, including climbing, is essential. It’s not just about competing anymore—it’s about showing others they belong too.

Q: With Trump winning the 2024 election, how do you think that will affect the transgender community, especially transgender athletes?

A: It’s a devastating blow. Gender-affirming care is already under attack in many states. I fear for those in less supportive communities. But we must continue to fight for our rights and create spaces where trans people can thrive.

Q: Who is someone you look up to, and why?

A: Kai Lightner is definitely one of my biggest inspirations. He’s an incredible climber as well as a great leader in promoting diversity in climbing. Seeing his work motivates me to do the same for queer and trans climbers.

Q: How do you see the future of inclusivity in sports like climbing?

A: I’m optimistic. Seeing non-binary categories in competitions is a step forward. I hope we see more widespread changes, even in official events.

Q: What advice would you give to other transgender athletes, especially those in climbing or similar sports?

A: Love yourself and find supportive spaces where you can be authentic. Stay safe and remember that there are people who see and value you for who you are.

Gavin’s journey is one of resilience and authenticity, a testament to the power of representation. 

Their story highlights the importance of creating inclusive spaces within sports and proves that visibility can not only inspire but also transform lives.

 As Gavin Albright continues to climb—both literal walls and societal barriers—they are helping to shape a brighter, more inclusive future for the next generation of athletes.